the truck has lots of power doesnt smoke has about 250000km on the motor no lights are on and is getting good fuel mileage. aswell i should note it is not a valve sounding knock it sounds like something a little deeper

 

Could be a tad early on the timing or a sticky injector.
judged on your milage i would say you're over due for injectors.

 

what could replacing the injectors due for me other than maybe reducing the noise

 

Poor injectors over time will cause piston damage.

 

If i look into this more and it turns out to be injectors. where is a good place to get new injectors from or which brand should i look for.

 

new injectors wil also help out the power, preformance and the fuel economy.

 

x2 Bison

 

My 98 is noisy/knock at cold start up too. Usually only at idle out of gear. When i put it in gear and drive it is quiets down. It only has 49000 miles on it. Oil pressure is good 30-50 psi Once warmed up it is very quiet and runs good. Sometimes it lets out a puff of white smoke when started warm. I am thinking I may have a weak/leaking injector? But have low miles on them. Before I bought the truck it ran on Bio diesel. I run it on regular diesel with additive or 2 stroke oil because BD is not available where i live.
I am thinking i should just go ahead and replace the injectors. I know the truck was mostly driven around a small town. Never really got warmed up when used and must have sat a lot with the low miles on it.

 

Poke that motor with a fork , its done. 290,000 for a 6.5 is extremely good and a wrist pin knock now is to be expected. These engines do not last in a hard workinh environment. Its true I have had three and almost never purchased a chevy again.

 

Poke that motor with a fork , its done. 290,000 for a 6.5 is extremely good and a wrist pin knock now is to be expected. These engines do not last in a hard workinh environment. Its true I have had three and almost never purchased a chevy again.

B ffen S,you dont know dick all about these engines.

 

One of the best ways I found to check injectors is the proverbial cracking of each line until the knocking is eliminated.
You can also use an infrared temp gun to isolate a bad injector. The cooler the exhaust port the worse off the injector.

 

If you get it hooked up to a tech 2 scanner you can also shut down individual injectors.

 

I should add that my engine got a lot quiter after I replaced the PMD with a D tech. And relocated it to the Rad support. I thought my engine was running ok with the old stock PMD. But the noise concerned me.
But after replacement with new. It was like night and day. Engine was quiter, smoother & better throttle response.
Also now that it is getting warmer in the mornings over 32* C my engine is a lot quieter on cold starts.

 

One of the biggest problems is that these engines have weak mains and block webbing. Also where the heads bolt up to the block is so weak that they actually get bent/pulled outward and create a seal problem. The wrist pins also are notorious for failure. The rod bearings also seem to like to spin on these engines.

 

One of the biggest problems is that these engines have weak mains and block webbing. Also where the heads bolt up to the block is so weak that they actually get bent/pulled outward and create a seal problem. The wrist pins also are notorious for failure. The rod bearings also seem to like to spin on these engines.

I dont know what you did to them to have all these failures,but it looks like you was,nt to interested in oil changes or checking oil level.
Load her up,dont look back and just give'r will crater any engine in time.

 

wow, i have never heard of anything like that failing at all. except for the main bearing webbings. other than that ive never heard of the wristpins being bad or rod bearings spinning or the blocks deck being pulled out like what happens on a 8.2 detroit.